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Monday, 16 December 2013

London’s Upcoming Talents

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London has been recognized as a centre for recruiting new fashion talents for the past few decades with worldly-acclaimed designers like: John Galliano, Alexander Mc - Queen, Hussein Chalayan, among many others. Skimming through the Spring collections last week, we noticed a handful of new talents. Some have dedicated the past twenty years of their life to fashion, while others have only recently presented their debut collection. Often from mixed cultural backgrounds, and at ease in London’s cosmopolitan atmosphere, some of them have completed a MA in either Womenswear or Menswear at the prestigious Central St. Martins College of Art and Design.
Born in Hong Kong and of Portuguese descent, John Rocha studied fashion in London in the 1970’s before moving to Dublin were he has lived ever since. He has been involved in fashion, interior design and architecture, besides launching his “organically inspired jewelry” in 2002. That same year, he received a ‘Commander of the British Empire’ (CBE) from Her Majesty The Queen, for his lifelong commitment to fashion. This season, Rocha’s collection conveyed a poetic etherealness mixed with a ‘charming oddness’. Mockingly conventional classical tailoring features: buttoned-up collars and oversized straight lines accentuated the playful sentiment of being a little more than ‘just what they ought to be’. Tints of tobacco, almond, umber, egg blue, old rose, lichen green and sunset orange, but also black and white, added an element of surprise to this very modern collection, recalling artist Sean Scully’s blocks of ‘colourful candies’ in his painting “Wall of Light Summer”. A bouquet of ruffles on the models’ head and a pair of retro wooden shoes expressed tenderness for treasured possessions that have ‘lived’ through time.
Young Greek-Austrian designer Marios Schwab lives and works in London where he launched his label in 2005. After having completed a BA at Esmod Berlin, he moved to London to pursue a MA in Womenswear at Central St. Martins, from which he graduated in 2003. Schwab has been presenting his collections at London Fashion Week since Spring/ - Summer 2006. 2006 was an especially important year, as he was awarded Best New Designer at the British Fashion Awards. Wellknown for his mix-matching of textiles, Schwab’s Spring 2010 collection consisted in layering three to four fabrics, so that they ‘continue’ one another, whilst covering most of the body, only to accentuate certain chosen features of the original female form by revealing them. This effect was mainly achieved by mixing tightly tailored pieces such as the top of a shirt, just until the bust, with loose, flowing ones like the softly curved skirts. With stiff and soft fabrics in different textures and either strongly complementary or strongly contrasting hues of bronze, midnight blue, lilac, black, satin pink and aubergine, he assembled the elements of traditional tailoring that best optically flatter the female shape. Schwab’s fascination for and research on unconventional approaches to silhouettes is as daring as it is promising.
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Austrian-Italian designer Peter Pilotto and his partner Christopher De Vos, who is Belgian-Peruvian, met while studying at the Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts in 2000. In 2008, their label, Peter Pilotto, was accredited as one out of ‘Ten Most Promising New Talents’. The design duo celebrated its favourite prints in soft turquoises, pencil-coloured yellow, marmalade red, faint silver, deep grey and gold. The subtle bold-coloured prints gave a modern touch to classically refined jackets and coats, as they accentuated the sophisticated draping– their prints are never randomly placed on the silhouette. Instead, irregular spots of colour are used to create an illusion of depth, when necessary. Peter Pilotto’s mastery of prints combined with pleasant, ageless and timeless forms, define this truly fantastic collection.
Danish designer Marcus Wilmont and his partner Maki Aminaka Lofvander, who is Swedish- Japanese, are the designers behind the Aminaka Wilmont label. Wilmont studied Menswear at Central St. Martins and earned the ‘Collection of the Year’ award at the International Talent Support Competition in Italy. Aminaka Lofvander graduated from the University of Boras, Sweden, in Womenswear. The two met whilst working at Robert Carey William’s studio and launched their own label in 2006. Aminaka Wilmont envisioned next spring with silky halftinted prints in pinks, white, caramel and pale blues. Sensual, effortlessly draped fabrics and animal- like hair decorations were contrasted by black leather-stitched outfits, towards the end of the collection, demonstrating an eccentric interpretation of lively science fiction motifs, with a sharp, masculine dominating force.

London 2012: Alan Webb trying to unlock his elusive talents














Another race and another disappointing finish. Alan Webb’s legs didn’t move as fast as they should have, and afterward, his explanation struggled to find a rhythm, as well.
“I just keep — it’s just not, it’s just not, it’s not clicking for me,” said one of the most unpredictable and confounding middle distance runners to ever lace up a pair of shoes. “I don’t know what else to say. . . . The race goes, I don’t, you know, it’s just as simple as that.”
Webb still holds the American record in the mile and still trains each day like he’s on fire. He has spent the past several years trying to return to that elite level where everything just clicks,

Talent Identification & Development

Talent Identification & Development (Left to Right) Lizzy Yarnold, Naomie Riches, Katherine Grainger, Hannah Angela and Maggie Alphonsi

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Mission: To drive World leading Olympic and Paralympic Performance Pathways that ensure sustained success at future Games.
Sign up for the latest Talent ID search, Girls4Gold: Canoeing
The Performance Pathway Team is a collaboration between UK Sport and the English Institute of Sport (EIS). It supports World Class Programmes to identify and develop talented athletes and the construction of the underpinning support systems. Funded as part of UK Sport’s eight year strategic investment into development, the Performance Pathway Team’s work focuses on the 714 development (Podium Potential) athletes, and their coaches and managers who have the capacity to impact on future Olympic and Paralympic games.
The work of the Performance Pathway Team focuses on supporting sports to improve their systems of performance development through the following four work areas:

  1. Providing thought provoking, educational opportunities to development coaches and managers through the Performance Pathway Programme (P3) covering an array of topics unique to the ‘elite developing athlete’ i.e. athlete profiling, tracking and benchmarking and alignment.
  2. Enabling sports to benchmark their performance development pathways against world best using specialist diagnostic tools.
  3. Undertaking innovative research projects to gain a greater understanding of the route to excellence in elite sport.
  4. Applying technical frontline solutions in partnership with sports to identify and develop talented athletes.
As part of our frontline solutions work the UK Talent Team has run nine national athlete recruitment projects, which have assessed over 7,000 athletes all of whom were previously unknown to the UK World Class system and sports.
These projects have resulted in over 100 athletes selected by sports into the World Class system with 364 international appearances made and a total of 123 international medals won.
In as little as four years since initial identification, several of these athletes were selected to represent Great Britain at the London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games, including Helen Glover and Victoria Thornley (GB Rowing),Angela Hannah and Richard Jefferies (GB Canoeing) and Louise Jukes, Kathryn Fudge, Bobby White, Dan McMillan, John Pearce and Mark Hawkins (Men’s and Women’s Handball).

New fashion talent gets chance in east London event

RUNWAY MODEL: Fashion from last year's show
A FASHION show aiming to put black designers on the map will be taking place on Brick lane, east London this Saturday (July 20).
Shaqueen Wilson, 24, from Canning Town, east London, started up Born 2 Strut in 2012 with some friends after noticed the lack of opportunities for black fashion designers in the UK.
Explaining how she came up with the idea, Wilson said: “An inspiring moment had taken place in my life when I had a fashion crisis during the weeks of my daughter christening.
"I sought a family friend for help and in less than a week I designed and she created my ideal dress. This opened my eyes to the abundance of undiscovered talent in the area of black fashion that may be out there.”
The project will feature four up-and-coming designers showcasing 15 outfits from each of their collection.
Wilson added: “After a trial show last year, I decided to go bigger this year with designers like Mary Martin London, Nathan, Nita and Diana (a university student doing her first ever showcase).
"Born 2 Strut wants to open doors for black fashion because I do believe there are so many hidden talents out there.”

In London, New Talents Take the Spotlight

London is not short on young designer initiatives, and as fashion week approaches, the city begins to highlight its top up-and-comers. Today, the London-based Centre for Fashion Enterprise’s New Fashion Ventures program has awarded three ambitious new labels with sponsorship: Teatum Jones (launched by designers Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones in 2010), Fyodor Golan (designed by Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman and also launched in 2010) and Marques’ Almeida, which, designed by Central Saint Martins alums Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida, was launched in 2011 (an image from their Spring ’13 collection is pictured left). Having shown under Fashion East for their first two seasons, Marques’ Almedia—best known for its frayed, grunge-inspired denim looks—has also earned coveted NEWGEN sponsorship for the past two seasons. Founded in 2003, the Center for Fashion Enterprise has helped jumpstart the careers of designers like Mary Katrantzou, Peter Pilotto, and Erdem Moralioglu—that’s to say, the brands they champion have a pretty good track record. This season, the program will provide its chosen talents with business and PR support, as well as a studio space for the next two. Thus far, the scheme has helped over 200 emerging talents and awarded about $7.8 million in funding. Keep an eye out for CFE’s Fall ’13 picks, which will show at London Fashion Week this February.

Why Talented Creatives Are Leaving Your Shitty Agency

tumblr_lh381zD16r1qzbytdo1_1280Over the past few months it seems like I keep having the same conversation over and over again with friends in dozens of agencies around London, it usually starts off like this:
“Who do you think is the best agency is at the moment? Is anyone doing good work?”
And ends with them explaining why they are thinking of moving on. The reasons why are always the same:
“I want to work on an actual product people want to use”
“I want to build my own thing”
“I want to explore more new technology and ideas not gimmicks”
“We never do any interesting work”
“We only care about hitting targets”
“I don’t feel like I’m learning”
“We never push back and tell the client their ideas are shit”
The exodus of talent we’ve been hearing so much about at executive/director level is now filtering down to smart young digital/mobile creatives, planners and account managers.
And can you blame them?
The people who generate all the ideas and work are evolving and realising that they themselves could be reaping the rewards rather than the agency.
Agencies on the other hand are happy to keep trying to live in a world which is ceasing to exist. Clinging onto the same ideas, tools, and ways of working with CEOs who are either oblivious to the current mindset or too frightened to instigate change.
It’s the perfect storm of increasing entrepreneurialism, decreasing  loyalty and an industry reveling in mediocrity.
Startups are offering equal or better salaries than agencies with more perks and chances to get equity, brands are taking design and development in-house after realising they’ve been spending a fuck-load of money on sub-standard work, pure play product and design studios are quickly emerging with young and talented leaders, and of course technology is lowering the barrier to starting your own business, in both time and cost with the freelance market also booming.
Many agencies are offering whatever trend makes them seem relevant to existing and potential clients (who sadly lap this shit up). Whether that’s UX (which never goes beyond wireframes), User Centred Design, MVP,  incubators or the current shiny thing – innovation labs.
While many people will shout “Well agencies aren’t about innovation or hacker-like creativity, it’s just about billable hours”, the sad truth is that whether they are or not, this is what agencies sell, not only to clients but to staff, and that’s the problem.
Promises are made in job descriptions and interviews that aren’t kept.
You never get an agency intro that says “We pride ourselves on creating branded apps that no one wants and churning out banners that no one clicks on, we say yes to all our clients daft suggestions because we know it’s the easiest way to make money. Oh and you’re gonna leave here with nothing worth putting in your portfolio, fancy joining us?”
The talent is there, as is the desire, agencies can try to stop the bleeding and try create places where talented people want to use their skills to build great things for clients and users, or they’ll take their passion and curiosity somewhere else and be left with the deadwood.
So here’s a small but potent list, a view from the ground for the agency execs and CEOs. My own thoughts and those of my peoples, collected from designers and creatives (and a few PMs/devs/planners too) in agencies around London.

1) You won’t stop taking on shit work

We understand, you’re an agency, you need to keep the lights on and pay people. We get that. Everyone gets that.
But at the same time we expect you to have ambitions just like we do.
In the beginning it was cool to take the low-hanging fruit of animated GIF mobile banners and cookie-cutter augmented reality apps, just like we thought making nightclub flyers at uni was cool when we first got into design, but after a while that shit has to stop and you need to start aiming higher.
It’s your job to get the best brands and companies doing interesting projects that push our boundaries. If you’re not winning these projects then that’s something you need to address, it’s down to you.
Look we’re happy to polish a turd or two, it goes with the job, sometimes it can even be a welcome break from intense projects.
But months and months of the same old, soul-destroying, pointless shit for brands and clients who have no desire to do good work is toxic, not just for creatives (and our portfolios) but your entire staff.
I’ve no doubt when you decided to start your agency you dreamt of creating amazing work and pushing the industry forward, not apps that superimpose wigs onto photos.
I love this quote from Moneyball:
“I’m not asking you for ten, twenty, thirty million dollars. I’m just asking for a little bit of help. Just get me a little bit closer and I will get you that championship team. I mean, this is why I’m here. This is why you hired me. And I gotta ask you what are we doin’ here?”
If it’s not to do great work, what are you doing?
Just wanna make money doing any old crap regardless in the hope of selling to Martin Sorrell one day? Good for you, but tell us that at the interview.
2) You don’t innovate
One of the worst feelings as a creative in the digital or mobile space is when it feels like the industry is just passing you by.
In the time it takes to finish one or two mediocre projects the industry takes another leap forward with new software, frameworks, services, devices, APIs, design patterns and interactions, and we take a step back.
The place where you spend 8+ hours a day should be teaching you new skills and giving you hands-on experience and progressing you as a designer.
Clients are often reactive and risk-adverse, they want something after everyone else has done it to death. By the time they give you a brief , it’s old news.
If on some rare occasion they do want something new, it’s never detached from the brand, it’s always got to try and peddle something to someone.  It’ll come with so many caveats that it’s no longer useful or interesting – “oh the legal team said take out that awesome thing that makes the whole project worthwhile”.
It’s understandable that clients have this approach. Brands may not be comfortable with putting experiments and prototypes into the wild, but there’s no reason why you can’t explore this stuff without them.
If you sell ‘innovation’ as one of your agencies capabilities (who doesn’t these days?) then you should be making experiments and prototypes with technology plain and simple.
It’s amazing that so many agencies get away with saying they’re innovative but have nothing to show. Oh so you love being innovative so much that you never create anything internally? You’re creativity stops at client work does it? Do us a favour, stop the bullshit.
There seems to be this misconception that to do anything interesting with technology takes too much time and money if a client isn’t paying for it. This is total and utter bollocks.
In the last few months I’ve attended two different hackdays where individuals and small teams made stuff in hours, not weeks or months. These guys were armed with nothing more than a passion and desire for what they do.
Pure, undiluted autonomy can produce amazing things for your business if you provide the right environment for it to happen and just get out of the way for a bit .

3) You keep hiring shit (and not doing anything about it)

Passion and engagement are contagious. But so is negativity and mediocrity. 
There’s nothing more brutal than watching C players bring down A players. And when your A players leave, who’s going to attract your future talent?
Agencies are fast paced places to work and it’s common for teams can scale up in the blink of an eye.
It’s inevitable mistakes in hiring are going to be made whilst under pressure, but the problem is that you don’t have the guts to correct them until it’s too late.
Bad hires are like a cancer, they bring down morale, work and confidence in the business.
Stephanie Travis wrote a great post recently about hiring:
You owe it to the team members who are getting it right. Don’t drag them down with a personality that doesn’t fit or skills that are below awesome.
So if you’re trying to scale your team be focused on quality. Don’t sacrifice. Don’t hire too quickly just because you raised money or because you feel pressure to make things happen. The minute you compromise on quality you’ve already begun the descent.  
So how do you fix it? Advice from Mark Suster:
“One of the “tells” for me of a management team that will not be extra-ordinarily successful is that they’re not always recruiting. I’ve seen it before – I send a talented member to a team and they say to me, “we don’t really have a role for that person.”
Really? I always have a role for talented people. I may not have a BUDGET for talented people – but I always have a role for them. What role? Who the F knows. But let me at least have a coffee and feel out their enthusiasm, talent and ambitions.
I might choose to do an upgrade on my existing team. I might be grooming them for when I have more money or more revenue. I might not be able to persuade them now but I want them to know my company so that when I’m ready to step on the gas I have a list of A players I want.”

4) You don’t stop taking on projects that can’t be delivered unless we work 12 hour daysawesomeworldofadvertising

Ahhh working til 9pm several days a week, it’s just the agency way of life right? Wrong, it’s bad management.
Tell your account managers (or yourself) to stop selling things that can’t be completed unless we work ourselves to death.
I’ve seen people strain their health, relationships and family lives for what? So a deodorant can get more brand awareness? So that we can meet the unrealistic deadline you promised whilst trying to win a pitch? Or so a client can get dozens of mockups before they go on holiday?
This is advertising we’re talking about, not some higher calling. Everything we make is forgotten about in 6 months. Who gives a shit?
Matt Steel puts it in perspective in a brilliant, must-read blog post:
Before his work as a business coach, Peleg ran a successful design firm in LA. He once told me that in the 18 years he owned Top Design, he never encountered a true design emergency. That simple truth resonated deeply with me. At Peleg’s firm, they weren’t saving lives or fighting wars. It was a service firm, and they lived accordingly. His team was in the office from 9–6 Monday through Thursday, and 9–2 on Fridays. They set realistic expectations for their clients and met deadlines. The business thrived. But they didn’t answer the phone at night, and were unavailable on weekends. Peleg’s team had clear boundaries, made them known, and their clients were happy. They worked when they were rested and present. The quality of their output spoke for itself.
As Matt says later on in his post, sometimes you have to stay late because you’ve created a problem or need learn a new tool but too many unrealistic deadlines means that you stop creating because you love what you do. You begin working out of fear.
“When fear rules our lives, even the most amazing calling in life can be downgraded to a career. On the trajectory of fear, careers wane through the grey purgatory of jobs, and jobs break down in quivering heaps at the fiery gates of slavery.”
Fear becomes the driving force, the fear of missing a deadline, disappointing a client or wasting time trying to find inspiration. You begin churning out work and forget the reason why you wanted to be a creative in the first place.
The rewards for creatives are often minimal, we’re happy for a pat on a back and to be included in a ‘thanks for your effort’ all staff email but the chances of getting money, shares (LOLZ) , or even getting your name dropped into the press release for all that hard work are slim to zero.
Which brings us to the next point:

5) You don’t give staff any credit

I really don’t understand why more agencies don’t give exposure to the people who do the actual work.
Instead of putting yet another fucking generic CEO/Creative Director quote into a PR piece, why not grab a line from some of the people who actually worked on the project and busted their arse meeting its deadline?
The Junior Creative who stayed late for 2 weeks getting the project out of the door, the account manager who endured weekend calls from the client asking to make a logo bigger, these guys are the agency heroes.
‘Thank you’ emails are great but they don’t come up in Google and you can’t link to them on blog or CV.
Do the right thing.
Jules hits the nail on the head:
“ Ad agencies hide the people actually solving the client’s needs, the creatives, behind bloated layers of account management to ensure maximum billing whilst everyone plays agency snakes and ladders, to the client’s detriment.”
Another way to give staff exposure is to start a blog and everyone contribute. Agencies are full of engaged people with ideas and passions, why not let them have dedicated time to blog?
The blogs of Made By Many, Teehan+Lax and ustwo are great examples of how it should be done. There’s a wide range of contributors – from designers, planners, project managers and developers.
Each post makes it easy to find out about the author and their role in the agency. The authors are clearly passionate about the stuff they write about, sharing work processes, personal interests, tips and ideas.
The agency provides the platform and benefits from the content, the contributors build their reputation and presence in the industry, everyone wins.

6) You don’t buy us decent equipment

This is a no brainer. Get your designers some big fucking screens.
Have you ever had to toggle between designing in Photoshop, a PDF containing wireframes, a email from a client with amendments, Facebook and Twitter all on one poxy 15-inch TFT Dell monitor that the last finance director left behind?
This quote from an agency exec on Digiday sums it up:
“My one recent anecdote is when one of our new hires sent me an email requesting dual monitors and that one of them be a large one. I simply forwarded the email to that girl’s manager suggesting that she come check out my dinky 15-inch monitor that I’m rocking.”
Wow I bet this guy is fun at salary reviews.
I’m sure 15-inches is fine for reading emails and renewing your golf club membership but for something slightly more critical to the business, like, you know, the actual work that brings in money, it’s gonna need to be bigger.
Quite simply, we produce better work with better equipment and software. If it takes 10 seconds to move a Retina graphic across my canvas in Photoshop on my crusty machine you can be damn sure pixel-perfection won’t be my priority when deadline approaches.
Our job is to create, not worry about the ancient equipment you dragged out the cupboard. No designer wants to play ‘Guess whether Photoshop has crashed’  for half of the day.
Pressed for cash? Apple do finance plans and HotUKDeals do daily emails. Oh and eBay.

The end

So there you have it.
I know people will say that agencies have always had high-turnover of staff and that these reasons have always existed, but I’ve been doing this for just over 7 years and it just feels different this time. 
There’s so many more options now that weren’t around 3-4 years ago, the way people are talking and the general mood has completely changed.
Whilst working at Isobar, every talented graduate or young UI designer I tried to recruit wanted to get experience working on products. They didn’t care about the type of work the agency produced. The brands were no big draw either. iPhone app for a beer brand? Mobile site for moisturising cream? So what?
When one of the designers told me “I want to look after users, not brands”, I had no reply, he was right. That’s all that you ever really do in a place like that.
I stayed in touch with a few of them, they work in tech companies or startups now.
Once they get a taste of real problems and caring for the end user, it’ll be near impossible to go back to doing marketing fluff.
Dustin Curtis wrote in his recent post
“Learning how to think like this is like discovering halfway through your life as a flightless bird that you have wings and can fly. And once you discover it, there is no going back. It’s addictive and powerful. It ruins your ability to be a worker bee, because you’ve tasted blood: you become a killer bee, intent on understanding why things are the way they are, finding their flaws, and pushing the universe forward by fixing them.”
This feeling is the one that is rarely understood by the execs but it’s critical to realising the future of the industry. Maybe when the hackers and makers are running the show, things will change.

Sunday, 8 December 2013

Russell Brand and Noel Gallagher to open 'talent bar' in London

Russell Brand, Noel Gallagher and friends at XFM. File photo.
Image by: Bang Showbiz

Actor Russell Brand and musician Noel Gallagher are planning to open a talent bar in north London to showcase the skills of upcoming musicians.

The comedian and the former Oasis star want to give upcoming artists the opportunity to showcase their skills in a new private members spot in north London.
It's thought the pair are hoping to replicate the success of arty club Boogaloo in Highgate which is known for its trendy atmosphere and live music.
A source told the Daily Star newspaper: "The plan is to start a private members forum that will attract young professionals and upcoming artists to show off their talents. It was Russell's idea but Noel is fully behind it."
The duo have been friends for years with Brand even delivering a speech at Gallagher’s wedding to Sara McDonald in 2011.
Brand’s shared a table with Gallagher at the GQ Awards in September, where the Get Him to the Greek'star picked up the Oracle of the Year award, and he managed to make a jibe at the singer during the ceremony.
He said: "Oracle? That's got to be a made up award so I would turn up. It was also a great source of news when I was growing up, alongside Teletext.
"I would like to thank that pixelated news source and say to Noel, good luck being more offensive than that son!"